How to properly connect the socket from the socket
There are various ways and devices to power two or more devices from one outlet - for example, tees and surge protectors. If it becomes clear that several devices will always be turned on in a certain place, then it is much more convenient and practical to connect the socket from the socket. True, in this case, a number of nuances must be taken into account that will affect their normal and long-term work.
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Pros and cons of this connection method
There is only one advantage and it is always in sight - ease of use, because you no longer have to fiddle with carriers, stumble over wires or worry that the tee will loosen the socket contacts and fall out of it.
In order to fully assess the possible shortcomings, you need to disassemble the device and see what kind of wire is connected to it - most often this is a wiring with a cross section of 1.5 or 2.5 square millimeters. Such a cable can freely withstand the connection of one household device with a power of about 2 kW and, with some stretch, a couple of such devices. The sockets and wires are saved by the fact that several powerful devices are rarely connected to one of them - basically, this is one device of 1-2 kW and somewhat weaker.
Before you draw an outlet or several from an existing one, it must be borne in mind that each subsequent one is a wire connection, which is an additional resistance to electric current. Even if you connect one powerful device, but to the last outlet, then there is a possibility of heating the previous contacts. The nature of the electric current is such that it has a vibration effect on the wiring, as a result of which the contacts inevitably weaken over time. According to the rules, all electrical contacts at enterprises must undergo an annual check and tighten bolted connections.
On the other hand, in living rooms the most powerful device is usually an electric heater - if it is not homemade, with contacts made unknown how, then two series-connected sockets and their wiring can withstand it freely.
The third question is the kitchen - it is there that the most powerful devices are usually collected in terms of electricity consumption: a dishwasher, a microwave oven, an electric oven, an oven, an electric kettle, a toaster and others, which "eat" from 1.5 kW. It is strongly discouraged to "hang" them on one wire, unless they are the weakest of them, for example, a microwave paired with a kettle or toaster.
Choosing a wiring method
All ways to lead the outlet from the outlet are reduced to how they will be fixed - inside the wall, outside or from the inside of the "parent" point, the wires will be brought out. All other working points are solved in all cases in the same way:
- Wire thickness. Everything is simple here - they should not be thinner than those that fit the "main" outlet. Otherwise, when a sufficiently powerful consumer is connected to the "daughter" outlet, the contacts will warm up - sooner or later the wire insulation, the plastic cover, or both will melt.
- Design. From the point of view of functionality, there are no special restrictions - some will be satisfied "if only it works", while others will choose "so that it is beautiful and combined with each other and with wallpaper"
- The procedure for connecting contacts. On household devices, there may be two or three.If there are two, then this is phase and zero - which wire to connect to does not matter, the main thing is that they are "planted" on different contacts. When three wires are used, these are phase zero and ground - its socket contact usually sticks out of the device body when you remove the cover from it. On the contact, you need to find a fixing bolt and screw a ground wire there.
- Grounding. It all depends on its presence - if it is in the first outlet, then it is strongly recommended to conduct a ground wire to the following points. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of the PUE - the cable should be as solid as possible with separate leads to each point.
There is one important nuance in the last question - initially the ground wire was connected directly to the grounding contacts, but it is impossible to connect it in the same way as the phase and neutral wires - from contact to contact - it is impossible. This is prohibited, since in the event of a wire burnout, all subsequent devices will remain unprotected. How to make the correct connection is shown in the figure - the main wire is unscrewed from the contact and twisting is done on it.
A separate vein goes to the first point and one more - "trunk" - to all the others. It is directly connected to the last point, and the previous ones, like the main one, are "hung" on it using separate wires.
All further actions depend on the installation method.
Outdoor wiring
It is found in its pure form in wooden houses or among fans of the "retro" design style.
In the first case, its use is due to strict fire safety requirements, which do not allow theoretically flammable objects to be laid in wooden walls. Additional difficulties here can be metal pipes, into which wires are often inserted to avoid even theoretically possible contact with the wall surface. This means that connecting the outlet from another outlet in this case means almost a 100% guarantee of the need for additional plumbing work.
If the wiring is simply made in the "retro" style, then adding another from one outlet means breaking the whole picture being created. The whole point of this style is that the wires are neatly routed from the junction box to the outlet. Often they are twisted in a spiral and generally look like an openwork weaving hanging in the air. In order not to risk spoiling the whole design, it is easier, more beautiful and more reliable to spend a little more cable, but to make a separate outlet from the junction box.
If you really need two sockets and for some reason it is not possible to stretch the wire from the junction box, then there is another way out of this situation. It consists in placing a new outlet next to the old one - on one dielectric support. If they have the same design, then this will already be a made block of outlets - in this case, the wires can be hidden behind their covers and the overall picture will not be affected.
Concealed wiring
It is called so because it is not visible, since it is hidden inside the wall, for which, during installation, grooves were cut in the concrete into which the wires were laid. Then these grooves (they are correctly called "grooves") are sealed with plaster or cement mortar, after which the wall is painted, wallpaper is glued to it or other finishing is done.
As a result, in order to stretch the wire from the existing outlet to the next one, first of all, you need to imagine whether it is possible to cut a groove in the wall, drill a hole for the socket box and only then make the connection.
If it is not supposed to connect powerful loads to a new point, then this method - how to connect an outlet from an existing one - is the most preferable, because labor costs will be much less than with a full-fledged installation from a junction box. If you do not want to unduly damage the wallpaper, then this solution becomes almost the only possible one.
If the new point does not have to be located at a distance from the old one, then installing the block of outlets will again help. Next to the first one, holes are cut in the wall for them and the wire is hidden inside them.When such a scheme for connecting an outlet with hidden wiring is used, then with due care, the entire finish remains intact. The size of the outlet cover is larger than the diameter of the socket, therefore, even taking into account the cutting of a larger hole (which is needed for its installation), the decorative overlay covers all traces of cutting the wall.
Combined wiring
The results of such a method, like connecting one or more from one outlet, are professional electricians with a certain coolness, especially if some shortcomings were made during the installation process. But for a number of reasons, this is most often done by home craftsmen, if you need to connect another one from one outlet - an additional outlet, and you cannot drill a wall ...
Such situations happen all the time, for example, in rented apartments - the owners do not give permission for redevelopment, and in some houses sockets are made only on one, maximum two, walls out of four, and it is far from the fact that they are located in the right places.
Installation procedure
The general principle by which the correct connection of new points is carried out in a combined way is as follows:
- It is banal, but necessary - the electricity is turned off in the apartment (or only the outlet itself is de-energized).
- The cover is removed from the “parental” socket, it is estimated how much it covers the hole for the socket.
- The expanding tendrils that hold the inner part of the socket in the socket are loosened - it is removed so that there is free access to the contacts.
- The wires are connected that will go to the new outlet.
- Before you insert the inner part of the socket into place, you need to check whether its limiter will crush the wire (usually it is a steel rectangular plate protruding beyond the socket with its entire perimeter). If this is the case, then you need to carefully chop off a piece of the socket (and maybe the walls) so that the wire can pass freely there. Then the socket is installed in place.
- A hole is cut on the cover to fit the wire so that it fits well against the wall. The body is then screwed into place.
- The wire to be connected is lowered to the plinth and is led along it to the desired place, fastening with brackets for electrical wiring every 30-40 cm.
This video details the installation and connection of sockets:
Hiding wire options
The way in which the socket is fixed is chosen depending on how you plan to use it. A new socket (for this type of installation, an external one is selected) can be screwed to the baseboard or simply left as a carrier. The wire that goes from the outlet to the skirting board can be brought into the cable channel, but for this it must be glued to the wallpaper or rigidly fixed between the outlet cover and the skirting board itself.
If the socket is installed seriously and for a long time, then you should still try to completely hide the wire. If there is a layer of plaster on the wall with a thickness of at least 3-4 mm, then a groove for the wire must be scratched in it - then it will be flush with the surface and it will turn out to be putty or painted over.
If wallpaper is glued to the wall, then they are cut along the line of the wire and spread apart. In order not to break them, it is advisable to wet the seam. When the wallpaper is peeled off from the wall, you can scratch a groove for the wire in it, lay it down, putty and stick the wallpaper back.
Plasterboard sockets
This is both hidden and open wiring - it belongs to the first because the wires are not visible, and it falls into the second category because the wires are not walled up in the wall and you can get to them. In addition to standard tools (unless the socket strip is installed), steel wire is required for installation. The procedure is as follows:
- The socket and the socket are removed from the wall. They are screwed to drywall, so you don't have to break anything.
- Steel wire is inserted into the hole and pushed in the direction where the new socket is planned to be installed. At this stage, you just need to make sure that there is a gap between the drywall plates, the profiles and the wall, into which the corrugation with the wire will pass (you cannot leave the wiring inside unprotected from mechanical damage).
- If the wire is able to grope for a path, then a hole is drilled in the right place for a new socket. A strong rope is screwed to the wire and pulled back.
- Then, with the help of a rope, a corrugation is pulled between the sockets, wires are inserted into it and connected.
If it is not possible to stretch the wire between the profiles, then a more radical means is used - a sheet of drywall is unscrewed, the wire is pulled and screwed back. It remains to putty the destroyed joints and install the socket. In some cases, instead of unscrewing a whole sheet, a hole in the required shape is simply cut out in the drywall (after unscrewing the fastening screws), which is then put in place and putty.
Which way to use
This issue is resolved in each case individually, depending on where the "parent" outlet is located and what power the connected device will be. If these are not kitchen outlets for an oven or points for powering a boiler with a washing machine, then calculations and practice show that several outlets will work without problems without overloading the network.
The main condition for the installation of any sockets is good contacts between the wires, which reduces the total resistance of the wiring and the likelihood of it heating up during operation.
